![bristol tiltshift bristol tiltshift](https://live.staticflickr.com/6051/5897447161_54d9338d33_b.jpg)
It will do me but there are more expensive models out there and again, you will probably get what you pay for. I bought the Neewer model and to be honest it’s not great.
Bristol tiltshift plus#
The rotation device has handy degree markings on it too plus three spirit levels. This means I don’t have to faff around getting my tripod absolutely level. The camera rotation happens on the level rotator and not at the ball head. I put this on top of my RRS ball and socket head and I use the head to level the rotator. The L plate I have on my X-T1 is not of the same quality and so I use my X-Pro 1 for all my pano needs. I have a Really Right Stuff L plate for my Fuji X-Pro1 and it is perfect for this application. If you already have an L plate without one you might be able to scratch a mark onto the plate in exactly the right position using a scriber. An L plate for your camera with a lens centre marker.What bits and bobs do I need to make super high resolution panoramic images? The Sunwayfoto kit is a better quality all round.Ī nodal shift plate allows the camera and lens to be moved forward or backward to an accurate predetermined position relative the point of rotation so that the unit can rotate about the node of the lens thus eliminating parallax errors in multiframe panoramas. See my method detailed below.Ī Neewer 140mm Nodal shift plate and the Neewer fluid panning device are okay as budget entry level kit. There is absolutely no way to accurately guess a lens nodal point but there is an easy way to discover it using a tripod, a nodal shift plate and some basic household implements. Some zooms like the Fuji XF10-24mm have the same nodal point irrespective of focal length selected while other Fuji zooms have nodal points that vary with each focal length setting of the lens. Some lenses have their nodal centre at a point within the front lens group while other lenses seem to have their nodal points near the exit or rear of the lens. Parallax errors in panoramic pictures can be eliminated by placing the rotation point of the camera at the lens node point. The node of a lens is its optical centre point. The level of micro detail in this 5 frame image is startling. Even the leaves and twigs in the foreground stitched perfectly.
![bristol tiltshift bristol tiltshift](https://i.pinimg.com/474x/13/4e/9f/134e9f3aa6152353304b2d38e53ddea7--bristol-beaufighter-data.jpg)
Unfortunately the light was poor when I visited the site to test out my nodal shift system. The boats are part of a temporary art installation.
![bristol tiltshift bristol tiltshift](https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-IFQkTioiJEs/WafY1Qk6v2I/AAAAAAAAJ_s/Ly128LrmENIS2ROI-wWkaoqDzz1TFmsDACLcBGAs/s1600/JJS_1805.jpg)
This scene captured in a woodland near Bristol was stitched from 4 frames. This even works for the panoramas created in camera with the panorama function. It doesn’t have to be this way because with the rotation of the camera around the nodal point of the lens such distortions are completely eradicated leaving perfect joins.
Bristol tiltshift software#
The post production software tries to fudge these irregularities and often delivers panoramas that look great at a distance but suffer at the detail level where the individual frames join. When you shoot multiframe or sweep panoramas with the camera panned on a standard tripod the side swipe of the lens introduces parallax errors at the image join points. Nowadays we can use carefully shot multiple exposures of a scene taken on a small easy to carry camera and stitch them together however there are problems to overcome. In days of old, roll film cameras with panoramic proportions 6×17 or even 5″x4″ cameras were used to create negatives large enough to make immensely detailed prints for display. Here is my guide to making great panoramic photographs using Nodal shift. No matter how good the software is it needs great source images to work with. But Canon don’t make a lens that will resolve this kind of detail – yet.īy using the latest software like Lightroom 6 (cc) with built in RAW photo merge we can create stunning multi image panoramas. That is more than 30 million pixels and it would need a 46 million pixel camera with a 3×2 sensor to capture it like the Canon 5Dmk4. This one from my Fuji X-Pro1 with the XF16mm lens is 8322 pixels by 3668 pixels. The pixel dimensions and file sizes from stitched panoramas are considerably larger than single frame images.